There
are stories everywhere you look in the bustling market town of
Mullingar and the rolling, green countryside that surrounds it. Stately
mansions tell tales of dissolute aristocrats and unimaginable excess.
Ancient monuments are brought to life through legends of gods and old
traditions are revived, shared and celebrated. Connecting all these
disparate histories are the waterways – glistening lakes, gently flowing
rivers and the Royal Canal, a monument to the industrial age that
opened up Ireland’s mysterious heartland to trade, transport and a
curious outside world. Follow these watery routes by foot, by bike or by
water to uncover some truly memorable experiences.
Belvedere House and Gardens
An
idyllic lakeside mansion, a wicked earl and a monument to family
dysfunction – Belvedere House, on the shores of Lough Ennell, has quite a
past. Built in the 18thcentury by Robert Rochfort, this glorious
Palladian mansion served as a hunting lodge and bachelor pad for
Rochfort, who is famed for cruelly imprisoning his wife Mary, after
accusing her of an affair with his brother. Designed by Richard Castle,
Belvedere is an architectural delight and boasts magnificent rococo
plasterwork and dramatic Venetian windows. Outside, the experience is
equally magical, with woodland walks, children’s play areas and highly
ornamental follies including the Jealous Wall – a massive, fanciful
structure built by Rochfort to hide his brother’s larger, grander
mansion. Give yourself a good few hours to explore this gem to the
full...
belvedere-house.ie
Hill of Uisneach
The
remarkable Hill of Uisneach was once the ceremonial and spiritual
centre of the island; a sacred space where ancient kings and queens came
to honour the earth goddess Ériu and the sun god Lugh. To unlock the
incredible history of this place, take a tour and delve into a story
that starts with creation, veers off into the curse of St Patrick and
finally brings you right up to the annual Fire Festival, which takes
place every May and continues a tradition that dates back over 5,000
years. Stand at the highest point on the hill, the megalithic tomb known
as St Patrick’s Bed, and you can see no less than 20 counties on a
clear day. The tour finishes at the famous Aill na Míreann (the Stone of
Divisions) – a weathered limestone boulder that is said to mark the
final resting place of Ériu, for whom Ireland is named. uisneach.ie
Mullingar Cathedral
The
distinctive twin towers of the Cathedral of Christ the King dominate
the Mullingar skyline and draw you to the imposing granite façade of
this impressive building. Inside, in two side chapels dedicated to St
Anne and St Patrick, gorgeous mosaics in the Eastern Orthodox style
shimmer in the dim light. The vibrant colours and exquisite
craftsmanship are the signature of Russian-born mosaic artist, Boris
Anrep, whose work graces Westminster Abbey in London. If you’re visiting
during the summer, pop into the cathedral’s museum, which contains some
fascinating items, including a ring once worn by Marie Antoinette.
Tullynally Castle and Gardens
In
the lush County Westmeath countryside, the great gothic Tullynally
Castle sits overlooking Lough Derravaragh, immortalised by The Children
of Lir. There are not many houses like Tullynally still left in private
hands, but the Pakenham family – Earls of Longford – have kept a firm
grip on this magnificent castle since the 17th century. As intriguing as
the castle is, it’s the gardens at Tullynally that will take your
breath away, with a flower garden, a woodland garden, a Chinese garden,
and a kitchen garden. Add in a grand avenue of yew trees, two ornamental
lakes and a llama paddock and you’re in for an experience that’s a cut
above your average stately home. The castle itself is still a family
home and is not open to casual visitors but group tours of the main
rooms can be arranged.
tullynallycastle.ie
Kilbeggan Distillery
One
of the oldest licenced distilleries in the world, Kilbeggan was a
powerhouse of whiskey production right up until it closed in the late
1950s. But the local community was determined to keep tradition alive
and, pooling their skills, they slowly brought the old distillery back
to life. Now you can step back in time and see how whiskey was made over
200 years ago, a slow, labour-intensive process that utilised water
from the River Brosna, corn and barley from local farmers and the skill
of the distillers who controlled the whole magical process. To make the
most of your visit, join the excellent distillery tour, which takes you
through the process, from fermentation to distillation to tasting.
kilbeggandistillery.com
Maynooth Castle
Standing
sternly at the entrance to Maynooth University is the remains of the
once-great Maynooth Castle, founded in the early 13thcentury. In the
cellar of the keep here, there is a small visitor centre with an
exhibition on the history of the castle and you can still see the
remains of the Great Hall upstairs. After your visit, wander the grounds
of the university and keep your eye out for the 800-year-old Silken
Thomas yew, one of Ireland’s oldest trees. It was said that Silken
Thomas (who retreated to Maynooth Castle after his failed rebellion of
1534) sat beneath its boughs playing his lute the night before he
surrendered to King Henry.
heritageireland.ie
Castletown House
When
Ireland’s richest man decided to build himself a county house, the
results were predictably spectacular. Castletown House in Celbridge,
County Kildare, was Ireland’s first and largest Palladian manor and a
worthy testament to William Conolly, the son of a Donegal innkeeper who
rose to become Speaker of the Irish House of Commons. A tour of the
house reveals fascinating contrasts: the stark elegance of the soaring
Entry Hall, whimsical rococo plasterwork along the Stairway Hall, the
sombre wood panelling of the Brown Study and the captivating beauty of
the Print Room – essentially a scrapbook of 18thcentury culture and
taste. After your tour, head out into the Castletown parkland along the
network of paths and you’ll find a classical temple, a fanciful gate
lodge and superb views of the River Liffey.
castletown.ie
Corlea Trackway Visitor Centre, County Longford
It
feels like ancient history is all around you in this part of Ireland
and nowhere is this more evident than at the Corlea Trackway in County
Longford. Here, an incredible Iron Age bog road, made from oak planks
and dating from 148BC sits carefully preserved within a fascinating
visitor centre. The bog road is the largest of its kind ever found in
Europe and is thought to have been used by royalty to travel from
Rathcroghan in County Roscommon to the sacred Hill of Uisneach.
Compelling stuff. heritageireland.ie